Ms van Heemstra takes us on a meandering, thoughtful journey of the food cycle in New York. Sitting on a subway, she ponders what happens to all of the human waste fifteen million people produce. On that notion, she investigates and follows the cycle to sanitation plant, to manure factory, to Florida tomato fields, to New York fruit market, to restaurant, and back again. It's not just about "her" tomato, though. Ms van Heemstra observes the people involved in the cycle and their own personal stories, as well.

Do you like shaggy dog stories? I do, and this is a great one. Following a tomato in its journey back to New York is only a semi-interesting conceit, but the stories that go along with it are magnificent--especially the pugilistic truck driver, who is a latter-day Damon Runyon character. If you know Joe Mitchell's finest work (and if you don't, you have a treat in store) you will realize the tradition of New York stories to which this belongs. A few more facts might have been helpful--like how much of these biosolids are actually used--but what the hell. This is a very fine piece, from a mind that will clearly produce much more of value. I can't wait.